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Monday, November 14, 2011

How to Pour Babbitt Bearings



Bearings in an engine are used to support moving mechanical parts and protect those parts from frictional degradation. The heavier and more powerful the engine, the stronger the bearings must be to provide this support and protection. In 1839, a special material called Babbitt metal was developed. Babbitt metal was quickly adopted to make strong bearings called Babbitt bearings. Babbitt bearings were used widely in heavy gasoline engine powered equipment. These types of equipment dealt with heavy load requirements, such as milling, planing and chipping trees. By 1949, metallurgy advances from World War II had rendered the Babbitt bearing practically obsolete. However, many who admire time honored ways continue to use gasoline powered equipment with Babbitt bearings. As the Babbitt bearing is no longer commercially available, these enthusiasts must pour and cast their own Babbitt bearings. Use these tips to learn how to pour Babbitt bearings.

  1. 1- Remove the old bearing. Babbitt bearings are solid and must be melted off with an oxy-acetylene torch, available at hardware and building supply stores. Open the bearing case and melt off the old bearing, making sure you melt the retaining grooves and holes, as well. Collect the melted Babbitt in a cast iron lead melting pot, available at welding supply outlets. Scrape remaining Babbitt from the bearing case, grooves and holes and add them to the pot.


  2. Get more Babbitt. The amount of Babbitt melted from the old bearing will be just enough for a new Babbitt bearing, but it is always helpful to have a little extra. Babbitt metal is hard to find. Babbitt metal is usually available at saw mill supply companies, chipper companies or some hardware stores.
  3. Prepare the surfaces. Clean the bearing shell of residue and oil. Make sure that the shaft to be supported by the bearing is smooth and clean.
  4. Coat the shaft. To prevent the shaft from sticking to the bearing, coat the shaft with smoke from a low flame kerosene lamp or a candle.
  5. Position the parts. Place the bearing shell in the vertical position. Align the shaft in the exact middle of the bearing shell. Plug or dam the holes in the bearing, except for the fill hole. Clay, wood, sheet metal and fireproof pasteboard can all be used to plug the holes.
  6. Melt the Babbitt metal. Use the cast iron lead melting pot. Heat the Babbitt metal to 850 degrees F (454 degrees C.) An electric lead pot designed to cast bullets is the preferred method because the pot has a temperature control. The melters typically are available at armory supply shops and specialty forging shops. These outlets also should be able to provide a bullet caster's thermometer, which is used to ensure that the Babbitt metal is at the desired temperature.
  7. Heat the bearing shell and the shaft. This will minimize the thermal shock when pouring and yield a properly formed and consistent bearing. Heat the bearing shell and shaft to about 250 degrees F (121 degrees C) so that moisture will evaporate quickly, but not sputter.
  8. Skim clean the molten Babbitt metal. When the Babbitt metal has reached the proper temperature, stir the fluid. Skim off any dross (impurities) that have floated to the top of the molten metal.
  9. Pour the bearing. Pour the molten Babbitt metal into the bearing shell. If the ladle is not big enough to fill with 1 pour, work quickly to get the second pour in so that no boundary forms between the 2 pours.
  10. Finish the bearing. Allow the bearing to fully cool. Use a drill to drill out the oil holes. Clean any excess material from the drilling. Use a diamond shaped chisel to chisel an oil groove from the oil holes to about 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) from the end of the bearing. The oiling groove must be cut on the inside surface of the bearing, so the bearing must be driven off of the shaft for the chiseling and then replaced. Clean any excess material left from the chiseling.


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