How to Easily Remove a Cylinder Head on an Auto With Frozen Bolts

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If you are removing a cylinder head for repairs, you don't have to remove the nuts, and break-off the stud bolts or ruin the exhaust manifold. Don't even remove the retaining bolts holding the exhaust manifold(s) to the cylinder head or the bolts attaching the cross-over pipe to the exhaust pipe either.

Steps

1. 1
   Use a hacksaw to cut the cross-over exhaustpipe on a V6 or V8. This is because the nuts going to the stud bolts in both areas are usually rusted and frozen and cannot be removed without breaking them off, and then extracting the broken stud.

   
   

   • The cross-over pipe usually looks like a "Y" shaped tube which connects the two exhaust manifolds to the exhaust pipe. However, in some older vehicles the crossover curved around the front of the block to the other side, not a Y. Be certain to cut onlythe arm going to the cylinder head you are removing. Exception: if you're removing both cylinder heads, you'll have to cut both sides loose.
2. 2
   Make the saw-cut where it will be easily accessible. You will want to plan for clearance for inserting an exhaust splice-connector when doing reassembly.
3. 3
   Remove the valve cover and the intake manifold and then unbolt the cylinder head.
4. 4
   Lift both the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold off together. This is without having to remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head. So you have the portion of the cross-over pipe still attached -- all in one piece without any more cutting.
5. 5
   Make your repairs and clean the head thoroughly.
6. 6
   Clean engine block surfaces where the gaskets make contact. This is for a good seal where the head will be reinstalled.
7. 7
   Lift and replace the cylinder head as a "unit" after getting your gasket positioned. Remember to plan for inserting the exhaust splice-connector when doing reassembly without ever removing the exhaust manifold or those frozen bolts between the cross-over pipe and exhaust pipe.
   • Since the exhaust pipe is usually on a flexible "hanger", you'll have enough "play" to insert connector piece without having to do it before you tighten down the cylinder head.
8. 8
   Insert the exhaust splice-fitting (usually a 2" x 2" O.D. connector), and tighten down the 2 U-clamps either before or after the cylinder head is torqued down. It is easy to insert this piece and to make a tight fit.
9. 9
   Use a ruler or Vernier calipers if necessary to confirm the size of the pipe, if you are not sure of the size, as necessary. The size may be different in some parts of the exhaust tubes.
10. 10
    Avoid exhaust fumes in your car's cabin. Check into having it welded later at a muffler shop if it loosens after vibrating and bouncing around for a period of time. Some pipes are stainless steel and are difficult to weld.
11. 11
    Listen for a leak as a pipping, snapping or a popping sound or a larger leak may be a "grrr, brrr" (growling) sound.
    • Caution: Fumes are odorless and can be deadly.

    
    

Tips

• This process works well, makes things very easier and the connection may be as tight as the original pipe.
• If have a "straight" 4-cylinder, or an old straight six then there is just one pipe to cut going back to the exhaust pipe.
• Cost for 2 clamps and the exhaust connector is about $5 or less.
• If you don't have enough "play" to get the connector in, just cut a short piece (about 1 inch) from the end of the pipe; reinsert using the play you have, and then tighten the U-bolts down.
• Since this pipe is almost always 2" x 2", and both ends (where you cut) will be identical, not only is very easy to do, but the connector is easy to find, and a very common size.

Warnings

• Don't make the cut(s) too close to either of the usual places they connect. Do it in the middle at a place where you won't have a problem cutting it or getting the U-clamps on the pipe.
• Use adequate ventilation. Don't ever run the engine even a few seconds in a closed place. You need open ventilation in a garage -- not just a window open where the engine will be running.

Things You'll Need

• Mechanics tool set
• Head and intake manifold gaskets
• Hacksaw
• Two U-clamps
• One exhaust connector.

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