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If you're van is throwing the code "Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve stuck open", this article will show you the easy, yet still correct, way to replace it. Just follow the steps below carefully, and keep common sense in mind, and you'll do great. See tips below for a tool list.
Steps
- 1First (most important step) is the diagnosis. Don't skip this step as you might replace something that isn't broken. There may not even be a problem with your valves (i.e. the vacuum isnt even reaching them to be able to shut them). If I wouldn't have done diagnosis and just went by the diagnostic trouble codes, I would have replaced both of these valves when only the front valve had failed. The wife's van was throwing two codes saying that both were stuck open. I took the vacuum lines off of each (one at a time), and plugged it with my finger. The one at the back didn't do anything, but I felt vacuum. When I plugged the one at the front, I felt vacuum, and the rear valve closed. I put a vacuum pump on each valve (again, one at a time), and after one squeeze, the rear valve closed. I could have pumped on the front valve all day to no avail. These valves, if good, should close with very little vacuum, and should also hold the vacuum when applied with a vacuum pump. The default position (engine off, no vacuum) for these valves is open. Once the engine is started (and vacuum is being applied) these valves will close until wide open throttle, when vacuum is absent.
- 2
Negative TerminalNow we get down to the nuts and bolts (quite literally). Disconnect the negative terminal at the battery. DO NOT skip this step under any circumstances. If you want to know the why, there is plenty of literature out there and plenty of reasons, the best being YOUR SAFETY. Once it's removed, secure it somewhere that you are sure it won't come into contact with the terminal again unintentionally (picture).
- 3Remove the accessory belt by relieving the tension on the belt. Good luck trying to get a socket on this beast. I'm sure they have a nice shiny tool that makes this easier, but I used the box end of a wrench to get on this. Pull the wrench toward the front of the vehicle until enough tension is off the belt to remove it from the alternator pully. Doing this with a wrench does require a good bit of strength. If you can't get it to move, or don't think you would be able to put enough power behind it to get it to turn, talk to one of your local parts store to see if you can get your hands on that tool. They may even have it on a loaner program so you wouldn't actually have to buy one.
Remove the accessory belt by relieving the tension on the belt. - 4
Now remove black dust boot from the top of the alternator (just wiggle it back off where it is).Now remove black dust boot from the top of the alternator (just wiggle it back off where it is). Take off the nut hiding under there, and lay the wire to the side. Thread this nut back in place once you have the wire off so it doesn't get lost somewhere. Remove the three bolts holding the alternator to the accessory bracket and the electrical connector on the side of the alternator. The connector was already taken out in this picture, but top arrow pointing to the right is where it was. And just in case you're curious, there's a picture here that shows what it looks like without the alternator in there.
- 5
From top to bottom: Front IMRC Valve, Fuel Pressure Regulator
Rear IMRC Valve
Take the vacuum lines off of the fuel pressure regulator (somebody correct me if I'm wrong about what that is), and both of the Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Valves. Now, swing the whole harness out of the way. Remove the electrical connector on the front valve. Just squeeze the connector at the back (where the arrow is on the picture with the connector off) and pull away from the valve.
- 6
Remove the white clip from the arm of the valve.Remove the white clip from the arm of the valve. I just broke the back parts of the clip off with a screwdriver. You won't be reusing this clip, as a new one should come with your new valve. Remove the two bolts holding the valve onto the engine. This is a little tricky, and where the u-joint comes into play. I used a 3/8 u-joint, but it would have been MUCH easier with a 1/4 u-joint had I had it here. The lines for the power steering fluid run right where you need your wrench to go, so be VERY careful not to bend these lines too much, or even break them or you may be making an additional repair! Again, if you're curious, I've added a picture with the valve out.
- 7Get the white clip for the new valve, and insert it in the hole that the old one came out of. Insert the arm of the new valve into the clip, and insert the two bolts that hold it on.
Get the white clip for the new valve, and insert it in the hole that the old one came out of. - 8All you have left to do now is put everything back on that you took off! Start with the electrical connector for the IMRC Valve, then the alternator, then the vacuum lines for the valves and fuel pressure regulator, and finally, the accessory drive belt. Just follow all of these steps in reverse, and you'll be taking it for a test drive in no time!
- 9Do a second check to make sure that you have everything back together that you took apart, and that all of your tools are out of the engine compartment. Start up the vehicle, and verify that both valves are now closed. Having an assistant available to start the vehicle while you watch the valves could be helpful, but it will be an obvious change from open to closed. Once that your are satisfied that both valves are closing when you turn the vehicle on, close the hood and take it for a test drive and feel the difference!
Tips
- Tool List:
- Wrench with socket set 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch drive (most socket sets, even the most basic, will have all the sockets neccesary for this repair) The only thing you may need the 1/2 drive wrench or breaker bar for are the alternator bolts. They're on there relatively snug.
- 1/4 or 3/8 inch drive u-joint
- Flat head screwdriver
- A tool for the belt tensioner would be helpful, but not 100% necessary
- Open end/box wrench (I believe it was a 5/8) for the belt tensioner. The longer, the better.
- I got the IMRC Valve from a parts store for around $120. I did see one online for about half the price, but settled on a brick and mortar store because, hey, I'm just old fashioned like that.
- I'm not sure how much a shop would charge for something like this, but it would probably run you anywhere from 60-180 or more for labor alone (especially if you take it to a dealership).
Warnings
- If you don't disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, there is a chance of electrical shock and/or electrical component damage (any electrical device in the vehicle).
Article provided by wikihow the wikihow manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Replace an Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve 96 Ford Windstar All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.
